Regardless of what you may feel about it, Marc Jacobs unapologetically reissued his spring/summer 1993 grunge collection from his past stint at Perry Ellis. Yes, it was that collection that got him fired, in addition to several fashion columnists and writers loathing his creations.
To even attribute Bernardine Morris’ writing in the New York Times, “his spring collection, in a sort of post-modern hippie way, mixes everything up. A typical outfit looks as if it were put together with the eyes closed in a very dark room.” As for Cathy Horyn, she wrote “grunge is anathema to fashion, and for a major Seventh Avenue fashion house to put out that kind of statement at that kind of price point is ridiculous.” But decades later, Cathy Horyn retracted her statement.
So in spite of what transpired back in those days, it was for the betterment of Marc. Because come today, that so-called unacceptable collection is now being celebrated globally—especially his name. In fact, even Perry Ellis came around and released a press statement describing the collection as “first of its kind… [and] changed the direction of contemporary womenswear.”
Perhaps it’s only right that as Marc Jacobs brings back his iconic collection, he kept his distinct avant-garde aesthetic that he became known afterwards. As it is aptly named, ‘Redux Grunge’ Collection 1993/2018, he remarkably reproduced 26 looks using the same set of fabrics, prints, and embroideries like the original. The new pieces were also complemented with knitted caps, jewelry, and shoes (in collaboration with Birkenstock and Dr. Martens) impeccably mirroring his styling before.
In the long run, Marc’s creation is a reminder that art will always be subjective and rules can be bent. So he just needs to keep on doing what he has been doing in the past years: presenting clothes that transcend and elevate fashion one collection at a time. Quoting Marc’s press statement, “the ‘Grunge’ collection epitomized… my determination to see my vision come to life on the runway, without creative compromise.”
