A paradigm shift to speak, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele shifts gears, introducing a new chapter for the brand that is its most minimal and sensual showing to date.
While many fashion insiders assume that the Gucci spring/summer 2020 collection would be yet another quirky, maximal, and sensory overload of a spectacle from Creative Director Alessandro Michele, they thought wrong.
Instead of a whimsically decorated scene, the Gucci Hub was transformed into a bare minimalist warehouse where red strobe lights, complete with trippy kaleidoscopic star art on the ceiling welcomed the guests to the show. Conveyer belt runways were used in lieu of the usual catwalk stage, and then all of a sudden, the dark strobe lights faded, revealing white flourescent and bright lights, as if signaling a new chapter in Gucci’s story.
Instead of dripping in opulence and unapologetic quirk we’ve come to expect from the resurrected brand, a pristine white straight jacket emerged, opening the show at a clinical pace for the otherwise more is more aesthetic that has become signature for a few seasons now. White separates continued to appear, followed by a plethora of monotones in greens, reds, and pinks, further splashed with purple to black separates.
The women’s collection featured dresses in sheer numbers, along with lingerie lace, a decisive shift to something for sensual. It’s sexiest collection to date, printed separates and suits were also prevalent, as well as fully sequined and metallic dresses. Effectively offsetting the looks were a copious sprinkling of BDSM-inspired add-ons and retro oversized sunglasses with chunky chains, truly signaling a shift in the current of energy running through the veins of Gucci. Not to be left off, the men’s collection also pushed for jackets, parkas, denims and suits. While it may seem to be a departure in visual, the storytelling is still intact, further highlighting the ever-evolving expression of fashion and style.
This season, the designer deviated from the usual theatrical antics, focusing solely on the clothes and accessories. While the strong reference to the spirited 70s is still apparent, as realized in the tailored suits with high waisted denim pants and long tunics, his approach takes on a new way to wear decade dressing, which is distinctly current. With an obvious effort to make everything more wearable, it is perhaps the era of a new Gucci: decidedly dialed down, but still moody, sexy and yes, still with an undeniable edge that has left us wanting more.
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